August 2010

We had heard on bush radio 'Kakadon't' so we didn't know what to expect. People had been telling us that it wasn't worth the round trip of 350 kms just to see it. Apparently the scenery was very ordinary and just travelling past a whole lot of bush. This was true. We had seen and heard so much about Kakadu on TV and seen it in brochures we had to see it. What a disappointment if bush radio was correct. We stayed the first night at a place called Cooinda (Gagadju Resort) where we were planning to take the early morning cruise the next morning on Yellow water. They transfer you to there which is about 3kms away. After that breakfast was also included which is always a winner with me.

The wetlands were amazing. I guess we love birdlife (even if we don't know all the bird names) together with the tranquility and coolness of the early morning. Sunrise had not happened yet which was a blessing because it was really hot around here. Not only that, the crocs were also plentiful which made it more exciting. We also love nature. It's a photographers paradise. I will let the photos do the talking for us.

it was still dark when we left on the early morning cruise

the early morning before sunrise

Yellow water cruise

more beauty

early birds!

early bird

azure kingfisher

ducks that don't particularly like swimming!

brumbies??

wetlands

a local resident in Yellow water

mirror images - egrets

Yellow water reflections in the morning

pandanus palms everywhere

lotus lily

lurking in the lillies

fishing for barra

jabiru x2

jacana

wetlands and birds

We were also able to enjoy another 2 hours on the wetlands for a sunset cruise for an extra $10. Geoff immediately saw the bargain in this. We were not disappointed. We actually stayed the extra night because of this. The hot weather has come too early so the mossies and midgees were really bad and just about carried us away. Geoff was equally happy to be paying a small fee for a powered site whereas the Lodge people had to pay $300 a night using the same facilities.

The next day after 2 days of swimming in the pool at our resort we left for Jabiru. On the way we called in to Nourlangie rock which shows a lot of Aboriginal rock art paintings. Fascinating and so were the views. At this stage I was sweating big time but it was worth it. Luckily the walk was not a long one and the art work was definitely worth it. Check it out.

in amongst the rockery

scary stuff

Nar-bull-win-bull-win himself

We then went to Jabiru where we enjoyed another resort style caravan park. Even though both resorts are in a National Park where you would usually get basic facilities, one can enjoy a whole lot more than that when Aboriginal people have part-ownership. We could have done another wetlands cruise but had already done one. Geoff wasn't about to open the purse strings again! This time it was recommended that we see sunset at Ubirr. So we did.

the ochres and the rock formations

the climb at Ubirr and the view

sunset ritual at Ubirr

wetlands sunset at Ubirr

nearly set

and then it was over for another day

We were definitely not disappointed with our side trip to Kakadu NP. It was a must see. So we say Kakadu!

We have gone from seeing the Ghan coming through the Heavitree gap in Alice Springs and lovely cold weather to semi warm at Tennant Creek. Stayed at a caravan park with a bush poet who supplied bush tea and damper around a campfire. Mmmm delicious.

The Ghan coming into Alice Springs

Next call was Daly Waters pub where we were told that the show is really funny. A must stop and see destination. Unfortunately the entertainer there called 'The Chicken Man' had left 2 days earlier so we can't check it off our bucket list. Will have to come back to see it again. What we did do however was eat the barra there but made the wrong choice apparently because the steak was 'melt in the mouth' and the barra was not as good as it should be! Oh well missed out this time on both counts! I forgot to take photos of all the underpants/panties, bras, money, thongs etc on the walls of the pub. Geoff however took video of it all so that will have to be part of our movie. The pub had a lot of quirky stuff so will put some photos in for you.

stop sign at Daly Waters pub

quirky building at Daly Waters pub

what's this?

parking sign at Daly Waters pub

We then moved on to Mataranka. The place where you 'never never leave' or you 'never never come back to'. I am of course referring to the book 'We of the Never Never'. I have never read the book or seen the movie. It is based on a cattle station in Mataranka. We finally watched the movie at a lovely old pub at Mataranka Homestead where there are also the naturally heated, crystal clear pools. This one was my favourite pool because they had cleared the debris from the bottom and put sand and seating all around the pool. I could see the bottom and talk to a lot of people there! Of course we didn't need much heating up because it was bloody hot there already. Fortunately the water was luke warm. A popular water hole for the tour buses as well.

Mataranka thermal pool

wallaby in the debris

Geoff's favourite swimming hole was called Bitter Springs. It was left naturally and you could float gently downstream to a bridge with a ladder. You get off there and walk around to start the process again. Our caravan park was near there so we could walk to this one. We got up one morning early to swim in there and see the steam rising before it got too hot. The water in both swimming holes is really clear. Only thing is the algae (slime) around the sides but it is all part of the nature cycle.

early morning Bitter Springs

early morning at Bitter Springs

floating downstream at Bitter Springs

snorkelling at Bitter Springs

We also couldn't resist taking some photos of the termite mounds near our caravan park. They are of course everywhere outback and I dare say they will get larger as we travel to WA.

smallish termite mounds!

king termite found his mound!

There was also a beautiful tree at Mataranka but I don't know the name of it. Does anyone know?

beautiful tree at Mataranka

After that we arrived in Katherine and stayed at the National park caravan park there. It's now really, really hot and up to 36 by day. It is not your usual facilities for National Park because there was a lovely, cold tropical swimming pool there with a bistro and entertainment. We needed it because the weather has been really hot and very hard to sleep. Luckily we have air con but it is a bit noisy when on and we will have to get used to it. We are now at the stage where it is important to have a swimming pool at each caravan park. Have been in the pool every hour or less and of course a lot of catch up talk with other nomads.

We took the early morning cruise on Katherine Gorge including breakfast. Fortunately we did because it was really hot during the day and only a swimming pool could cool you off. The gorge was beautiful in the early morning but can't say the same about the breakfast. We did 2 gorges. There are about 13 but most trips do 2-4 gorges. You have to get off and walk between each gorge because of the rocks and the water levels which are not the same. The boats are waiting for you in each gorge and the only time they can get boats in and out of there is in the wet season when the Katherine river rises.

walking between gorges to next boat

Katherine gorge

Enjoy the photos. So much beauty!

reflections 2 on Katherine gorge

early morning on Katherine gorge

amazing reflections 2

amazing reflections Katherine gorge

beautiful scenery Katherine gorge

Katherine gorge cliffs

The heading says it all. Minimum temp to maximum in 2 days!

Too hot to blog!

rock pool at Gagudju Lodge, Cooinda, Kakadu NP

cool!

This part of our blogging has to be recognising 3 special people with special birthdays! All with a zero on the end. That is my Mum who turns 80, Dean (our oldest boy), and Kristie our niece who turn 30 this month. To all of you we say 'rock on'. Wish we could be with you but will certainly contact you when we can get some phone and internet contact back. We saw this 'Wicked' camper with the following slogan on the back and some cruel people immediately thought of Dean.

Wicked camper partying

Finally the day came to go to the Rock! The very centre of Australia.

kms from Alice to anywhere in the red centre

It is still a further 450 kms from Alice Springs. En route there are various roadhouses with unusual things to offer the tourists and entice us in for petrol, drinks and indeed overnight if we needed to. See the photos of the more unusual things you can see at a roadhouse. Camel rides are on offer as well.

a sculpted echidna at roadhouse

a sculpted lizard

friends for Pookie!

quirky things - clothes tree

As we were getting closer to Uluru we saw all sorts of rocks that you would think was Ayers Rock. These are some of the photos of the rocks we saw. We even saw a salt lake at one of the rocks we viewed. Finally we could see the real rock from a distance.

Mt Ebenezer

Mt Connor

a salt lake en route to Uluru

the rock

It is a truly amazing sight and I think every Australian who is travelling around the world should at least spend some time checking out their own backyard. We have seen it on TV and photos but nothing compares to seeing it in real life! There are so many tourists from Europe coming here that I don't think we met too many Aussies. Plenty of French people for Wendy to practise her French speaking and also Germans, Italians and Dutch. Most travelling in motorhomes or 4x4's.

The rock (Uluru) is revered each morning and evening with sunrise and sunset. At sunset you would find the best spot in the car park made especially for viewings and take your chairs and nibbles to get the best photos. Needless to say we and all the other tourists here have taken thousands of photos of the rock. We hope we don't bore you with these photos and I will just pick some of the best taken with my humble camera. More are of course on the video.

sunset Uluru 2

the rock by day

sunset at Uluru 1

sunset Uluru 3

We have walked around the base as well and seen sunset at various angles in the National park. Even at Ayers Rock resort where there are 4 hotels, a youth hostel and caravan park have dunes you can walk to. The rock is visible in most areas. The dunes are red with spinifex grasses on them as well as wattle trees, desert oaks and shrubs. A unique bush setting more like a semi-desert. We even saw rabbits in the dunes and thankfully no lizards or snakes.

boardwalk in the dunes to view the rock

rabbit at the dunes

viewing from dunes at Ayers Rock resort caravan park

You can also do a lot of walking around the resort and national park and rent a bike. It is pretty flat everywhere. Lucky we are getting good winter weather to make this all the more comfortable. Often it has been around 1 degree at night and around 17-20 degrees by day with wind. Fantastic! About 3 weeks ago it was both 6 degrees by night and the same in the day.

The Olgas or Kata Tjuta (Aboriginal name) are equally spectacular. There are about 34 rocks there. They are about 55 kms from Ayers Rock resort. We did a walk called Valley of the Winds (7kms) which was amazing. Check out the photos.

Valley of the Winds walk at Olgas

Valley of the Winds walk

The other walk we did was the Walpa Gorge which only goes for 2 kms. Whilst there you would of course have to stay for the sunset and nibbles/drinks viewing of the Olgas. See our photos.

more colours of the Olgas

sunset at the Olgas

sunset at Kata Tjuta (Olgas)

sunset of the Olgas

Most days the rock was closed for climbing due to wind but finally one of the days we were there, it was open. Check out the list of reasons it may be closed. Last year apparently it was only open for about 20 days.

reasons climb is closed

There are also 5 plaques on the side of the rock face of people who have died climbing the rock. It serves to remind you how dangerous it can be.

some of those who didn't survive the climb!

Geoff and I went planning to climb the rock. I got as far as 'chicken rocks' as you will see in the photos - I was joined by quite a few fellow travellers who thought it would be possible but alas it was not (in our minds of course). There is a sizeable gap between the rocks and the start of the chain and a bit of a steep climb. The shoe traction was really good but without something to hold on to, I chickened out and Geoff who has a fear of heights had no worries. He climbed to the top. Very brave man! The word 'chicken pants' comes to mind for me.

start of the climb

chicken rocks to the chain view!

Finally the last night we were there I treated us to 'Dinner under the Stars'. We were taken by coach to a secret location around the resort and up on a dune. It was still daylight so that we could see the sun setting on both Uluru and Kata Tjuta! Champagne in hand and canapes and a whole lot of newfound friends from overseas we shared a very special scene. After that we were shown to our dinner tables for a 6 course meal with wine and beer included (all you can drink). We tried!! We sat at a table of 10 people. Had a heap of laughs with the tourists from around the globe. Gas lamps were all around, a fire pit (it came down to 1 degree) and of course the stars. Later on we were entertained by a talk about the stars and also playing of the didgeridoo. You could get a retirement job here Matt prattling on about the stars whilst drinking all you can!

view of rock with cocktails at dinner under the stars

dinner under the stars

dinner under the stars!

sunset - dinner under the stars

Happy birthday Dean, Kristie and Mum. The special dinner we had is to celebrate your milestone birthdays and we hope that one day you will be doing this dinner. We have loved the Red Centre and will certainly want to visit it again.

We finally left heading for Kings Canyon which was 350 kms from Uluru. Our caravan park spot is facing the canyon and every evening we have cocktails watching the sunset on the canyon. The walk here is also around 7 kms but climbing the canyon and the views/rocks were exceptional. The word 'sheer' comes to mind. Another unique location not to be missed. Check out the photos.

rock face - rim walk of Kings Canyon

a moonscape at Kings Canyon

notice the people on the rock face

rim walk at Kings Canyon

There are also quite a few dingoes around so we are very mindful of locking up our food. They are fortunately shy and will run away but still lurking around for an opportunity to get some food.

We left the Kings Canyon and stayed at a roadhouse called Stuart's Well. The overnight camping was free but we had dinner there and were entertained by a singing dingo. He not only sings with a various range of notes but also plays the piano. Very funny. He is world famous and has had articles written about him all over the world. As well he has made TV appearances. His name is Dinky the singing dingo. For those of you curious about this check out youtube and put in Dinky the singing dingo. A very entertaining evening.

Dinky the singing dingo

piano playing Dinky the singing dingo

Not only the dingo entertaining us but also his owner who is a pioneer of this area and discovering the Kings Canyon. He is part of the Cotterill family and there is a whole history of how Uluru and the Canyon tours started and the accommodations during the 50's and 60's. Also the misfortune that happened at his resort of Wallahra. He also talked about dingoes and how they are not the vermin that we make them out to be. They do have a use in the Australian country. Certainly dingo was a perfect ambassador for his breed. Obviously domesticated but still has dingo behaviours. They are more a wolf than a dog believe it or not. I will leave you with photos of Dinky. We are heading off to northern parts of Australia next in about 2 days time. Kakadu, Lichfield NP and Darwin. This means we may be out of range for a few days until civilisation.

PS Also a big hug for my niece Tanya, who also has a birthday this month and luckily is not as old as the others!

This blog has to be dedicated to my 2 lovely sisters who both had a birthday at the end of July. Sorry we couldn't call you but we were out of Telstra range and also socialising on the town last night. Will be calling tonight!

Apart from travelling, socialising and sightseeing we are quite often out of range to do any blogging/emailing/interneting and hence the gap in blogs. The photos in the blogs can be clicked on to enlarge them a bit.

Who would have thought you would be wearing beanies and winter woollies in the Alice. Nicky is in heaven - it means no reptiles around. It is after all winter in the west! We arrived in Alice late afternoon did some shopping and I had to have my latte before heading to our caravan park for the next few nights. Across the road I spotted a shop selling paintings and didgeridoos, so I thought I would wander in to check out the prices. I have heard that didgeridoos are good to help you stop snoring! Met a guy there who showed me how to play his huge didgeridoo! He was good and I wish I had the camera with me when he was playing it. Minds out of the gutter please!

He is a white guy who learnt to play from the Aboriginals many years ago when he was young. He suggested that we go to a bar that night if we wanted to see a really good band with a good didgeridoo player. So we did. And you wouldn't guess it was him playing with some fellow band players. They were fantastic.Bought their CD. We had been warned not to go out in Alice at night but we never felt unsafe. Having said that we weren't wandering the streets but were in the Rock Bar for the time the band was playing.

We really like Alice Springs. Had to walk around town the next day whilst Kea campers checked out our van problems and hopefully able to diagnose the problem for us. This he did very successfully for the central locking part and we wished he had the time and resources to fix it for us. Unfortunately this was not going to happen so we have to go to Ford and start again.

sunset on Alice Springs

Whilst in Alice Springs we went to a place called Desert Park. Geoff didn't want to go due to cost. When a lady here told us you can get 2 for 1 tickets he suddenly decided to come along. He didn't regret it and would now have paid the full price of $20 each. It was an open air park all about life in the desert and was fantastic. Spent about 4-6 hours there looking at all the amazing life in a desert. You would think that it was all sand but it's not. We even got a recorded guide with headphones to explain stuff. All this for $16 for 2 (seniors discount). Basically the park is divided into 3 areas - desert rivers, woodlands and desert sands. There are also guided talks about bush tucker, aboriginal culture etc. Check out the views and the things we saw.

entrance to Desert Park museum

red kangaroos at Desert Park

birds of prey show at Desert Park

emu sitting down

Desert Park

3 red-tailed cockatoos

walking around Desert Park

some bird that looks like a statue

There was also a nocturnal museum with live animals in a very dark theatre which you can see once you get your 'night eyes'. Will have to leave that to the video because my still camera couldn't pick up anything except the lit up windows when you first come in and see all the lizards - small ones that is. At least they didn't focus so much on the reptiles. Mostly there were a lot of mammals - possums, quolls, desert rats and mice etc.

nocturnal window at Desert Park museum

We also learnt why the dirt is red in the 'red centre' and probably in WA as well. It is due to erosion over many years from the mountains, which are full of minerals. One of these minerals is iron. Iron eventually rusts (oxidises) due to the elements and hence the red colours. Amazing!

We decided to go to the East Macdonnell Ranges which is about a half day trip to see various gorges and rockpools. It looks really nice and one of the camping spots we loved - Trephina gorge, was cheap to stay in, so if we have more time then we may stay at Trephina Gorge. The dry river beds with the gum trees are quite spectacular as are the granite cliffs surrounding it.

a dryish river bed at Trephina Gorge

Trephina Gorge rock

Trephina gorge outlook

The Todd River that runs along Alice is dry unless it is raining which is rare. There are communities living on the dry river bed in town and some people have drowned when the water/rains finally come through. Also a few drunks who just lie on the railway tracks or the road and quite often the police have to come and take them away. Last night there was a guy in the middle of the road at the Rock Bar where we were looking out the windows. The police arrived in 5 mins and put him in the paddy wagon.

Todd River in Alice Springs

Yes we went back there with some other lovely people we met in the caravan park (Robyn and Ted). We told them how good the band was but unfortunately one of the band members were sick so our didgeridoo player was not on! I offered to serenade them with my didgeridoo playing - sounds more like a bunch of raspberries right now (and I still snore)!

the didgeridoo player!

The Todd river is also well known for the Todd on Henley which is held in Aug. They make cardboard boats, bath boats etc and race in the Todd river because it is dry. I have seen it on TV and now it means something after seeing it.

Todd River in Alice Springs

After seeing the East Macdonnell ranges we also had to see the more touristed part of the West Macdonnell ranges. There are about 7 turnoffs to see things and at the end was our 2 night stay at Glen Helen gorge and resort. We were facing the cliffs and it was really beautiful. Dinner under the stars and sunset on the cliffs - how romantic! Only thing was that I had to cook and wash the dishes?? Matt we wish you had been here to explain all the stars and planets to us??? Geoff was missing your commentary!

sunset @ Glen Helen resort

sunset on cliffs at Glen Helen resort

sunset at Glen Helen resort

Glen Helen gorge

The various turnoffs were so different and each one very unique. See the photos.

Standly Chasm at midday

Standly Chasm West Macdonnell ranges

Ormiston Gorge

a ghost gum

walk to lookout Ormiston gorge

who did the Larapinta trail?

Ochre pits

down by the billabong!

We spent another half day in Alice Springs again waiting for Ford to diagnose the van problem with doors and air con. The time was well spent going by bus to the School of the air. It's a wonderful school covering a huge area about 1.3 million square kms. Only 140 students who live on stations in the outback. The school is as much about socialisation as it is about learning. You can see the teacher/s behind a glass panel giving lessons on computer a bit like skype but a special program created for the school. The kids also get one on one lessons so are really keen to learn and don't have the discipline problems that you would get in a normal school. It was really interesting to see how it works live. You can see the photo.

school of the air Alice Springs

Well that's it for now until after the Rock. We leave on Sunday for Ayers Rock which is 450 kms away and after that Kings Canyon which is about 300 kms from the Rock. The weather is still wintery and beautiful. Temps are around 20 by day and 7 or less by night. It can vary of course. We had rain today and the last few days were a bit warm around 28.